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Author Topic: Meet the Trot'n Turtle - Unimog U1300L Build  (Read 5682 times)
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #90 on: February 11, 2017, 11:08:05 PM »

Time to finish up the passenger side ladder. 

Here both base plates are installed and I'm using magnets to line everything up and hold the side bars in place.  The magnets with black T handles are called MagSwitches, the larger square ones will hold 400 lbs each and you can turn them on/off at will by twisting the black handle.  These magnets are really handy to have around for this type of fabrication. 




Installing the steps. 






Clamped and ready to tack everything up. 






Fully welded up.




I did the welding this time around, not as pretty as my fathers work but it will do :-)




And bolted onto the truck...now to replicate it on the drivers side.








My father was the first to try out the ladder and go for a climb :-)




Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #91 on: February 13, 2017, 03:13:32 AM »

Today's project...fab up the drivers side ladder.

Here's another handy tool, it's a deburring tool you use to smooth the edges of drilled holes.  This ensures no burrs are left on the insides of the holes so the rivet nuts will sit nice and flush/tight.




Assembling the rack.






Tacked up.




Needed to turn the truck around in the garage so I HAD to take a couple pics of the truck while it was out :-)






Now to start on the push bar.....once I decide on how I want it to look :-)

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #92 on: February 14, 2017, 12:56:35 PM »

Seats arrived yesterday.  They are the middle row seats out of a 2017 Chrysler Town and Country Van.  These units are black leather and were new take outs, for $100 a seat they will be nice upgrades.

The bulky metal bases will be removed leaving the tracks to bolt the new mount setup to...add another item to the list of things to get done by summer :-)




Hodakaguy
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« Reply #93 on: February 14, 2017, 10:11:18 PM »

WOW! This will be the most customized and deluxe Unimog in the country!
I loved my deburring tool, I eventually broke it... must get another!
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #94 on: February 19, 2017, 12:30:50 AM »

WOW! This will be the most customized and deluxe Unimog in the country!
I loved my deburring tool, I eventually broke it... must get another!

Not sure about that....there are some REALLY cool Mogs out there  eek

I love the deburing tool as well, very handy to have around for sure. 

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #95 on: February 19, 2017, 12:32:11 AM »

My father and I hit the wrecking yards today looking for a center seat solution, we found a couple that I think will work but not in the right color yet.  While we were there my father had the great idea to check out some of the trucks to see if we could find a fuel tank for the drivers side of the truck, luckily we found one that should be a perfect fit! 

Here's the tank still attached to what's left of a Ford LCF Chassis. 




The tank holds 40 gallons and is sized perfectly for the Mog.  It is like new inside, outside will need a little elbow grease but will look like new as well once done.  For $125 it makes for a fairly cheap Aux tank and should give us great  range with 80 gallons of fuel on board.  Now to research fuel switching valves and figure out the sending unit to gauge connections for both tanks. 










More to come....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #96 on: February 23, 2017, 04:18:56 AM »

Update on the Ford LCF Fuel Tank.  Apparently these tanks are known to De-laminate internally and destroy the injection pump, injectors, fuel lines etc.  This looks to be a major problem with the LCF trucks, so even though the tank is the perfect size it's also a nightmare waiting to happen.  I've considered having a local shop prep and coat the inside of the tank to prevent any delaminating issues...but I'm not sure I'm going to mess with it at this point....have to think on it for a while.

Had a few minutes tonight to play with the seats.  Removed the drivers side seat to look at the base and see what it will take to mount up the new unit on the suspension base.  The seat rails on the new seats are the same width as the base so that makes things easier, but the seat sits to low when mounted directly to the base so a spacer will be needed.  After looking at the stock seat it looks like I can cut the adjustable portion off of that seat and use that to mount the new seat to the suspension base, this will give me the needed height and also allow me to adjust the height for different drivers etc.


Stock seat mounted on the suspension base.




This is the adjustable section of the seat, you can adjust height and angle of the seat with these two black knobs.  The lower clear dial is where you set the drivers weight for the suspension base.




Seat removed




Seat rails on the new seat




Seat sitting on the suspension base.  The seat is to low in this configuration.




Underside of the stock drivers seat.




The adjustable base is spot welded to the seat pan.






Disassembling the seat, carefully removed the stock cover to expose the base.




Cover and cushion removed.  I'll cut the adjustable base off the seat pan and fabricate some adapters to mount the new seat to this base.




More to come.....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #97 on: February 26, 2017, 01:59:41 AM »

Well up early and ready to install the drivers seat today.  To keep the adjustable base from the original seat and use it on the new unit the base and seat pan needs to be separated.  I can either cut the pan apart using a skinny wheel or drill out the spot welds using a spot weld remover, after all of 30 seconds I decided removing the spot welds would be cleaner overall so I set out to separate the two.

Here's the spot weld remover bit, it quickly chews through the first layer and separates the two pieces of metal.  You use a center punch to mark the center of the spot weld then use this tool to drill the weld out, the center of the tool is spring loaded and retracts as you drill keeping the bit on coarse.






And the spot welds before and after drilling, you can see the two pieces separating here.






Soooo.....now we have a lesson in thinking things ALL the way through before you start working on something. There are two stiff springs on the bottom side on the base that keep tension on the adjustment mechanism, as I started removing the spot welds it became apparent that the seat pan was the upper restraint for the springs and removing the spot welds wasn't an option.  Out came the Mig machine and a few minutes later the spot welds were put right back where they were when I started LOL.  Time to get out the skinny wheel :-)




Here the tabs sticking up on top have been removed and I've shortened the adjusting bars on all 4 corners to allow clearance for the new seat to go lower, the new seat is slightly taller than the old one.




Stops tack welded in place to keep the adjusting mechanism from coming apart if the adjusting wheel is turned to far.




Mounting bars installed, these were needed for the new seat to clear the adjustment bars.




Installed in the truck.  The seat is very comfortable compared to the OEM unit and adds a bit of modern look to the interior as well.  Glad I kept the height adjustment as I like to run the seat up very high but anyone with a heavier build will need to lower the seat to drive it.  When I pull the seat back out I'll blend down the edges and paint the needed bits.









I ordered another suspension base to install on the passenger side seat as well, hopefully it will help out with my father bad back when on long trips.  I also want to raise the passenger seat up to the drivers seat height, it feels like sitting in a hole when your riding on that side with the bench seat.  You can see the current height difference in this pic.




Started stripping the truck down for paint & powder coat prep that will hopefully start soon.  Still have several holes to fill on top of the cab from the old radio antennas as well.




Parts that will be going out for powder coating soon.  The mounting tabs on the front fenders had a thick layer of rubbery sealant applied under the paint all the way around each bracket to keep out moisture.  We didn't want the powder coating place to warp the sheet metal trying to get that stuff out with a sand blaster so my father carefully removed it all with hand tools.  There will be more to powder coat but this will be a start.




Hodakaguy
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« Reply #98 on: February 27, 2017, 02:47:22 AM »

Cool! I didn't know there was such a thing as a spot weld remover!
It's always a treat to see your clever problem solving and fabrication.
If I am ever stranded on a deserted island, I hope you are there to keep me alive.  thumb
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #99 on: March 05, 2017, 11:01:52 PM »

Cool! I didn't know there was such a thing as a spot weld remover!
It's always a treat to see your clever problem solving and fabrication.
If I am ever stranded on a deserted island, I hope you are there to keep me alive.  thumb

LOL.  I always thought it would be fun to try one of those survival shows....but I hate being cold so not sure how that would work out  ricky

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #100 on: March 05, 2017, 11:02:11 PM »

Not a ton of progress this weekend but slowly chipping away at it.

When the troop bed arrived to us the front of the bed had been bent slightly forward, we straightened it when we installed the bed on the truck but there was some damage on the passenger side gate that still needed attention.  The passenger side gate is very tight and you have to hammer it into place and use a pry bar to remove it from the bed, not going to work once it's painted so we needed to fix this issue.  After looking at the problem a bit the center pivot was hanging slightly and after a couple minutes with a air grinder and blending pad the gate is removable again by hand :-).  We then used a torch and a few pry bars/hammers to work the dents out of the metal where people had used hammers in the past to install the gate, will look great again once painted.




Disassembled the battery box and removed it from the truck along with the steps on both sides, these will all be re-done in a satin black.  The battery box is in really good cond, just some slight surface rust in spots.






All removed hardware goes into marked Zip Lock bags for easy identification later during re-assembly.




With parts removed for paint we decided to switch gears a bit and rotate the tires, I'm starting to notice some slight cupping on the front tires so it's time (also need to chalk the tires with the RW1 box removed and figure out proper air pressure).  The 22 Ton air jacks are to short to reach the axles even with the  tallest supplied adapters installed so we had to use some wooden blocks to crib up the jack.   My father is picking up some round stock this week that we will machine into taller adapters so the jacks can be used on the MOG without the blocks. 




More to come...

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #101 on: March 11, 2017, 03:38:52 AM »

Finished rotating the tires and torqued the wheels down this morning.




Time to start on the front push bar build.  I needed to turn the truck around in the garage so I had to get some temporary power to the truck to start it since I removed the battery box. 




Here's the push bar, it's built from 3.5" tubing (We thought this size fit proportionally with the size of the truck).  Here we are getting ready to mark/cut the proper angle on the bottom of the tubing, we performed a test cut at the bottom of the tubing to verify the angle was correct. 




Test cuts were right on the money so here we're marking out the final cuts. 






We will be making the push bar easily removable for maintenance purposes etc.  To bolt the push bar to the factory bumper we need to fill the step in the top of the bumper so the push bar base plates sit at an even height.  Here we cut two pieces of steel to fill the step.




Here my father is removing paint from the bumper so we can weld on the plates (we changed our mind on this process as our plan evolved, more below). 




Here the base plates are cut and you can see how the bottom spacer plate is needed to let the base plates sit flush.  The push bar will be welded to the top base plate.



 
Drilling the bolt holes.  At this point we changed our plan and decided to keep the bottom spacer plate a bolt on unit as well.  This will allow us to powder coat all the parts top and bottom and will prevent any rust between the plates. 




Here the bottom plate has been trimmed to the same size/shape of the top plate, looks better this way. 








And the push bar sitting in place for a preview.  The bar still needs to be trimmed slightly for level and angled (The bar will slant out slightly away from the grill).  Still have to fab mounts for the 20" light bar as well.  Hopefully weld the bar to the base plates tomorrow. 






Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #102 on: March 12, 2017, 12:49:25 AM »

Time to get the push bar finished up.  First up we need to lay out the proper angle on the tubing so we can make the final cuts so the push bar will sit at the correct angle on the base plates.  The cuts we made yesterday were 90 deg cuts and we don't know what angle we need as of yet.  My father had an awesome trick for laying out the perfect cut lines on each side.  We placed the bar in the correct location on the base plates and leveled it, then tilted the bar until we liked the angle.  At that point we found a small spacer that was just high enough to clear the gap at the back side of the tubing.  We then cut down a marking pen and used it on top of the spacer to slide it around the base plates and mark out the perfect cut line onto the tubing, with this method there is no guessing and both sides will be right on the money! 

Push bar leveled and the correct angle set.  Cut lines marked. 






Nice flush fit.




Dad performing his magic!, he's an artist with a TIG torch. 










Installing the 20" Baja Designs light bar.  We drilled holes for the bolts to recess into the push bar then welded half nuts onto the bottom of the bar.  The light mounts will now bolt directly to the under side of the push bar.  The mounts are set back slightly so that the push bar sticks out past the light bar for protection. 




Light mounted up to the push bar. 




Push bar angle




The light bar has a solid driving light pattern to compliment the spot beams higher up on the truck.  The bolts holding the push bar to the bumper are the same size as the OEM bolts that are holding the bumper to the truck but have smaller round heads. 






More to come...

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #103 on: March 13, 2017, 12:41:50 AM »

Stripping down the front end today



Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #104 on: March 20, 2017, 03:16:50 AM »

Time to remove the deck on the bed in preparation for paint.  The bolts holding the wood onto the frame are flat topped and have a square shank under the head to keep the bolt from turning, unfortunately after years on being installed in the bed the bolts are rusty and about half of them just spin when trying to remove the nut.  Time to break out the Mig.

Bolt installed in the bed, this is one that's spinning.




We tacked a piece of round stock to the head of the bolt so we could hold it and keep it from spinning, once out we just snapped the rod off the head and used the same rod to weld onto the next bolt.  We had a hand full of rods going as we removed all the offending bolts.








More bolts on the way out








Underside of the bed.




Bed coming apart








The wood is in good cond, we will sand, re-finish and re-install.




Removing the metal hardware, these bits will be powder coated.




Deck removed, frame is nice and clean underneath.  We will soon pull the frame and paint the underside black, the sides and gates will be painted the same color as the body.








Top view of the winch.






Starting to strip down the interior for paint.  Lots of small bits to remove.






Inside of the doors have a thick coating of cavity wax for corrosion protection, they are very clean with no rust.






While I was working on the interior my Father (Danny) was busy cutting out the plates to fill in the corner gaps on the rear fenders.








More to come....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #105 on: March 24, 2017, 12:51:59 AM »

Parts back from powder coating.  Satin Black.





Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #106 on: March 25, 2017, 01:22:16 AM »

Started some re-assembly work today.  First up while the battery box is removed from the truck I wanted to pull the front drive line and install grease zerks on the two front U-joints.  The U-joints have plugs in the middle of the joint and they are very difficult to remove and replace with a Zerk fitting with the drive shaft still on the truck.....so now is the time while access for removal is easy.

Protective cover removed from the rear drive shaft connection.




Marking the faces so I can re-install the drive shaft in the same orientation that it was originally in.




Drive shaft out of the truck.  This shaft connects the output of the clutch to the transmission.




Once the drive shaft was removed from the truck I could easily get to the plug located on the middle of the U-joint.  With the plug removed I found that I needed a 8mm Zerk fitting....which after looking through my supplies I'm fresh out of....Dohh!  After a trip to town (seems I always have to have at least one of those lol) I had the needed 90 deg Zerks in hand and finished up the job (no clearance issues with the Zerk installed), the joints are now full of RedLine Syn CV2 grease and future maint will be a lot easier :-).  After this picture the drive line was re-installed on the truck.




Next up time to re-assemble the battery box, I'll be removing the rear bed from the truck soon so I need to get the truck mobile again.

Support mounted up.




Starting to come together (that's dirt on the bottom of the tray)




Batteries installed.  Terminals and interior bolts were treated with a battery anti-corrosive jelly to keep them in good cond.  250AH of batteries!




And buttoned up.  I'm diggin the satin black color :-)




Starting to re-assemble the headlights, decided to go with stainless hardware as I like the contrast against the black.






Can't wait to see it all mounted up on the truck again





Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #107 on: March 26, 2017, 01:13:23 AM »

Time to fill the holes left over from all the radio antennas that were mounted during it's former life as a rescue truck .  There are 11 holes in the roof that need filled, 5 from antennas and 6 from the blue rescue lights that were removed. 

First up buff off the paint. 






We cut some slightly thicker slugs and welded them in, cooling them down immediately with water and a rag. 




Ground down flush. 






Now to fill in the holes on the front below the windshield, these holes were used for the electrical plug that went to the spot light.  I'll coat the back side with a cavity wax nozzle for rust protection.












Installed the front fenders again to make it drive-able, going to remove the bed soon. 








Engine purring away.




Picked up some replacement bolts for the bed deck.  The original bolts are a weird size and only available through Mercedes...at Mercedes prices.  After looking at options I found some stainless flat head Allen cap screws that will work perfectly, just need enlarge the holes in the deck slightly to make them work :-)






Hodakaguy
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« Reply #108 on: March 26, 2017, 04:17:55 PM »

Thank you for the updates! You never cease to amaze me with your thoroughness and dedication to your projects!
This build is an online course in vehicle refurbishment, thanks for adding to my knowledge! lurk
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« Reply #109 on: March 30, 2017, 10:30:46 AM »

 eek
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #110 on: April 01, 2017, 01:41:50 AM »

Time to get the bed removed from the truck in preparation for paint. 

The Turtle emerging from its den.  Forgot my good camera today so the pocket camera will have to do.




Removing the tail lights and wiring






Removing the center mount caps, Dad backing up the bolts from up top.








This is the rear brake proportioning valve, this valve automatically adjusts the rear brake bias depending on load. 




Removing the bolts and bushings from the pivot points.






Bed is free at this point and is resting on the center mounts.  Rigging is hooked up and the bed is ready to transfer to the trailer.






Bedless.




Bed strapped down for the trip back home.




Hills are turning green....Summer is coming!




Couple pictures of the frame with the bed removed.






Now back to paint prep......Ugg LoL

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #111 on: April 03, 2017, 03:37:54 AM »

Christmas came way early this year...in the form of a 90mm Stainless exhaust :-).  This will move the exhaust forward behind the step and clear up room for the extra fuel tank on the drivers side of the truck.  Quality looks very nice, can't wait to hear it and should look great.






First up on today's work list...replicate the wire cover that is located on the passenger side pillar and install it on the drivers side.  This cover hides wiring on its way up into the headliner.... and I'll have lots of wire to install after paint.

Here's the factory cover on the passenger side.



Cutting and bending the sheet metal.






Replicated and Installed.





Time to strip down the cab for paint.  Here I'm removing the sill plates that protect the door seal.  These are riveted in place so they need to be drilled out.








Plate removed, now to drive out whats left of the rivets.






My father started removing the rubber floor mats while I worked on the outside of the truck.  The mats are glued down with what looks like rubber cement, a heat gun softened up the glue and made pulling the mats up a lot easier.








Holes drilled/De-burred for wiring to pass through, will have rubber grommets installed here after paint.




Diesel heater removed along with numerous other bits.






Starting to look pretty bare!








Roof vent removed and disassembled.






Grill stripped, cab tilt brackets removed, etc.






Starting to get LOTS of Ziploc bags full of small bits.




More to come.....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #112 on: April 16, 2017, 01:22:36 AM »

Been catching up on some work around the house lately so haven't made a ton of progress lately on the Mog.  Yesterday we did start sanding down the bed boards and re-coating them. 

Sanding down the bed, the boards are in really good condition so we will re-use them. 




All sanded down and ready for the new top coat. 




And three coats of John Deere low gloss Blitz Black paint.  Blitz Black is awesome stuff...should look really good once back on the truck.




More to come...

Hodakaguy
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« Reply #113 on: April 17, 2017, 02:44:30 AM »

wow! The awesomeness never ends! I always learn some thing new! lurk
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #114 on: April 23, 2017, 01:43:39 AM »

My father and I Ran into a fellow Mog owner while running errands around town a couple weeks ago so we stopped to chat a bit.  Turns out he recently purchased the truck and just moved into the area.  He was looking for some help to change oils and give the truck a once over so he brought the truck over today and we went to work.

The truck is a 62 Swiss 404, the same type of truck that I purchased all those years ago.  He picked me up this morning in the 404 and we drove it into town to warm up the oils and snag some needed supplies.  The 404 is a lot of fun, been a long time since I drove around in one.

Starting to drain the axles and portals while the oil is hot.




Greasing the numerous zerk fittings, here we unloaded the front end with the jacks so we can properly grease the king pins.






Royal purple going back in the axles and portals....Redline MT-90 in the Transmission.




Engine oil going back in.




Clean interior.




Vital fluids all changed...now to go have some fun with it!



Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #115 on: April 28, 2017, 09:15:01 PM »

Paint!  Time to make the Red and Green disappear :-)

Finished sanding and painting the bed pieces.  Here the remaining pieces are waiting for paint.




I found a body shop that could get the truck in right away so we rolled to the shop with the bed in tow.  Luckily didn't get stopped on the way to the shop since the MOG had no bumpers, lights, fenders, blinkers etc :-)




At the shop.  Glass removed and the doors fully disassembled.






Starting to sand/prep the cab for paint.  Pretty much an empty shell at this point.






Skim coats over my welded repairs on the antenna mount holes.




First glimpse of color!  I went with Toyota Quicksand for the color, it's a desert tan color with a hint of sage green.  Here the bottom of the hood is fresh out of paint.




Inside of the doors are painted....prepping the outside.






Parts in the booth!  Top side of the doors and hood painted.




Truck painted and clear coat being applied.






And out of the booth!  I'm really liking this color, sooooo much better than the fire red :-)  Should look great with all the satin black bits bolted back on. Glass is going back in at this stage.










Direct sunlight the color looks a little lighter...lovin it!




Hood fresh out of paint.




Now on with assembly!  More pics of that process on the way....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #116 on: May 06, 2017, 12:44:25 AM »

Bed almost finished with paint, gates are done just have to finish up the sides of the frame with matching Quicksand.  The underside of the frame will be Blitz Black. 




Starting to work on some of the smaller bits.  First part to be re-assembled is the overhead console.  The console will house the numerous light switches, stereo and speakers.  Glad I went with color matched paint on the console, I was thinking about powder coating it black originally. 

This paint is somewhat of a chameleon when it comes to taking pictures, inside under florescent light the greenish tint really shows up...natural light it looks more tan.  Looks less greenish inside in person than it does in pics....weird.   Loving the color!

Inside shot of the painted overhead console. 





And assembled, with both florescent lighting and indirect natural lighting. 








Installing the new seal on the vent hatch. 







More to come....

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #117 on: May 07, 2017, 03:22:52 AM »

Time to get the truck back to the house and get this project moving again!

Picking the truck up from the paint shop, I backed the truck into the booth so I could assemble a few parts before heading towards home.






Here I'm getting ready to install the front fenders and the plastic guides for the hood to keep it from rattling on the drive home.  I'll be painting the red areas of the firewall with blitz black paint.




Getting the fenders ready to bolt up.  You can tell my son is excited to get the Mog back...he's playing games on the phone lol.






Stopped at a car wash on the way home to wash the undercoating and frame.  The undercoating on the cab is red and will be painted Blitz Black.  Feels good to be driving it again!




And back home, really liking this color!








With the truck back in the shop it's time to start the re-assembly process.  Installed the blinkers back into the truck and here I'm prepping the guards for install.  I installed a piece of 3M Scotchguard paint protection film between the guard mounting tab and the truck as a cushion.

3M Rock Film




And trimming to fit on the mount tabs, this film is really good stuff.




Drivers side blinkers and guards in place.






Installed a few other items...emblems, handles on hood and a few misc items.  Long way to go....




That's it for today...more tomorrow.

Hodakaguy
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« Reply #118 on: May 07, 2017, 10:24:19 PM »

Wow, what a transformation of the Unimog! I like the new color as well, it is a very warm and welcoming natural khaki tone, very desert like.
Thank you for the updates!
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Hodakaguyadv
« Reply #119 on: May 08, 2017, 02:30:34 AM »

Wow, what a transformation of the Unimog! I like the new color as well, it is a very warm and welcoming natural khaki tone, very desert like.
Thank you for the updates!

Thanks,I'm really liking the color as well!

Hodakaguy
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